most recent 30 from diy.stackexchange.com 2025-08-08T17:29:28Z https://diy.stackexchange.com/feeds/tag?tagnames=electrical https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/rdf https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/82801 3 Programmer https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/45053 2025-08-08T16:03:36Z 2025-08-08T14:49:45Z

<p>I am finishing a basement and I am not sure if I need to install GFCI or AFCI outlets. Is it better to use a GFCI/AFCI breaker instead of the outlets?</p> <p>NOTE: the finished basement will be used as a home theater/media room. There will be a dry bar also. </p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321317 2 SofaKng https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/4480 2025-08-08T00:40:35Z 2025-08-08T14:10:30Z

<p>I'm finishing my basement (and having the electrical inspected) but I'm not sure if GFCI+AFCI is required or only GFCI?</p> <p>I'm trying to save as much money as possible and GFCI outlets are around $20. GFCI breakers are $55 and GFCI+AFCI breakers are $65. The other problem with GFCI+AFCI breakers is they require an extra neutral connection and my neutral bus bar is basically filled.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321301 0 gatorback https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/56573 2025-08-08T14:40:52Z 2025-08-08T05:12:15Z

<p>My insurance company wants me to replace my Challenger electrical box. As I understand it, Challenger electrical boxes from the 1990s are branded as unsafe and will not be insurable. I read that they do not trip when they should trip.</p> <p>Given that they do not trip properly, does replacing the <a href="https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/91429/replacing-a-challenger-breaker-with-an-after-market-breaker/141440#141440">circuit breaker modules</a> remedy or am I missing something?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/yvo4Lx0w.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/yvo4Lx0w.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/iVXbk4Tj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/iVXbk4Tj.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/xVJjhbYi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/xVJjhbYi.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/bZRRZspU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/bZRRZspU.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/286900 1 popham https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/92223 2025-08-08T11:06:13Z 2025-08-08T05:06:00Z

<p>Under the 2020 NEC, I'm looking to add an extra fan to a freestanding gas fireplace beyond the built in blower. The extra fan is an ordinary wall fan with a 15A/120V plug.</p> <p>The existing blower uses a 120℉ on and 90℉ off <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07W5YQXCP" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">temperature switch</a> connected by magnet to the fireplace.</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/gPD81m.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/gPD81m.jpg" alt="temperature switch" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/7wh0ts.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/7wh0ts.jpg" alt="female disconnect terminal" /></a></p> <p>The existing blower uses <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/products/quick-disconnect-terminals/fully-insulated-quick-disconnect-terminals/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">insulated disconnect terminals</a> for all of its connections. There's no ground on the blower's switch, and there's no ground on the analogous switches that I've been able to source. Here's a quick schematic:</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/TNxcN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/TNxcN.jpg" alt="simple schematic" /></a></p> <p>My wall fan's circuit seems easy enough to build if I naively analogize to the existing blower's circuit. I anticipate, however, that I'm entering a minefield and that my bumbling will land far away from code conformance.</p> <ul> <li><p>My first instinct was to use the blower's current draw to trigger a relay feeding the fan. The &quot;current switches&quot; that I found required a minimum current draw of 0.25A (for tools triggering dust collection) which is my blower's exact rating. The dang blower is obnoxiously loud at full throttle, so I rejected these &quot;current switches.&quot; If there exists a more sensitive switch (say 0.05A or 0.10A) that's reasonably priced, then coupling the fan and the blower becomes a viable option. Without anticipating a dust collection use case (and an inline blower use case), I probably wouldn't have found any such switches. I would love to learn of any other name besides &quot;current switch&quot; for these trinkets.</p> </li> <li><p>Assuming that I install a new double gang box with a 15A receptacle in one side for the wall fan, does there exist some combination of cable plus strain relief gland that I can legally use for diverting the receptacle's hot, where the cable would integrate the temperature switch into the circuit? Both of the cable wire ends (no ground) would not <em>technically</em> be exposed, but the insulation of the required female disconnect terminals make me uncomfortable. The uninsulated male disconnect terminals on the switch make me uncomfortable.</p> </li> <li><p>Assuming that the cable with <em>technically</em> unexposed wires is no good, can I terminate the cable at a metal gang box? The metal box would conduct the fireplace's heat to a switch that is wholly contained within the box. Could I get away with &quot;fastening&quot; this box to the fireplace by magnet? If not, then could mechanical fastening make it code conformant?</p> </li> <li><p>Any other ideas?</p> </li> </ul>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321315 0 Max M. https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/62642 2025-08-08T23:44:14Z 2025-08-08T23:44:14Z

<p>Can I hook up a 30 amp 4 prong plug dryer to a 50 amp 4 prong receptacle with 6 gauge wire using an adapter?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/239028 1 Hunter https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/119599 2025-08-08T00:54:43Z 2025-08-08T23:02:28Z

<p>I have a hope that you'll be able to either confirm or refute my diagnosis. As a quick aside, I work in computer science and have a decent bit of electrical engineering experience, as well as practical experience working as an industrial electrician's apprentice during high school, so I'm not totally clueless on these topics.</p> <p>I have a Maytag MED3500FW0 front loading dryer that I've had for about 4 or 5 years now. We've had absolutely no issues with it up to this point, it's been relatively perfect. However, as of late it hasn't been trying clothes, as it hasn't been producing heat. The diagnosis I've come to is that the main board itself is bad, I'll outline my reasoning below for people to (potentially/hopefully) find flaws in.</p> <p>First, I looked in the technician service booklet and learned that I could put it in diagnostic mode. The code that I retrieved was F4E4, which the book says is low voltage on L2. I unplugged the dryer and verified that I had both legs at the outlet, I did.</p> <p>Second, I took off the back panel where the cord goes in and verified that I had 120/240V (120 from L1 to neutral, 120 from L2 to neutral, and 235 from L1 to L2).</p> <p>Next, I verified continuity across the high temp fuse, and combination switch part.</p> <p>Next, I plugged everything back in and started the dryer. While running I verified I had L1 voltage (to neutral) going into and out of the centripetal switch, into and out of the heating element, into and out of the combination switch piece, into and out of the high temp cut-out, and going in to the L1 leg of the heater relay on the main board. I also tested at the board for L2 (to neutral) going in to the heater relay.</p> <p>Finally, I tested across the L1 and L2 that were both present to neutral at the relay, and found 0 volts. The heater circuit relay is mounted on the board (board part number W11537223) and I believe it's possible to simply replace the relay, but want to make sure I didn't miss o mess up a troubleshooting step. Also, while the relay could be de-soldered and replaced, I would feel more comfortable replacing the whole board if this sounds like the issue.</p> <p>Thanks in advance!</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/174850 0 Wyatt https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/107269 2025-08-08T16:00:34Z 2025-08-08T14:51:03Z

<p>I have a challenger panel with a burned bus and bad breakers. I'm looking to replace them. I called my local shops and they said they don't carry this anymore. Is there a replacement option without going to remove the entire box? I am mainly looking to replace the interior components Bus and breakers. I don't mind other brands as long as they fit. The panel is 100 amp and I have attached images of the label and the bus.</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/mPRQT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/mPRQT.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/9Fym2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/9Fym2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/zVEl3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zVEl3.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/302127 3 John Doe https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/185448 2025-08-08T12:03:01Z 2025-08-08T06:23:13Z

<p>I am replacing the wiring for a room and want to disconnect the old wiring. I came across: <a href="https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/159153/terminating-unused-wire-in-breaker-box">Terminating unused wire in breaker box</a></p> <p>But, that is at the main panel. My primary question is:</p> <p><strong>#1 How to terminate unused wire at a junction box?</strong></p> <p>I was able to completely fish out the wiring for the lights and removed it entirely from the junction box, but the outlet wiring is not easily accessible. I do not want to disable the circuit at the main panel for this circuit since I am using it for the office and powder room lights.</p> <p><strong>#2 Should I cap both hot and neutral of the respective wires after disconnecting the line in to the outlet wire?</strong></p> <p>If I were ever to come across the wire in the future and I removed it from the junction box, even if it weren't connected, it would seem to be leading itself to a potential mistake or at the very least, require another junction box at that point in time (if for some reason I were to decide to use it in the future). Ideally, I would like to remove the wire, but it doesn't seem to be a feasible option.</p> <p>I also have a 240v line that I asked an electrician to disconnect (used to operate a pump for a well). So that I know what to expect:</p> <p><strong>#3 Would he be pulling that wire out of the main panel, removing the breaker, installing a filler plate and calling it done? Or, would the wire need to stay in the main panel, but capped with twist nuts?</strong></p> <p>If he did the former, again, that would seem to lead itself to either a dangerous situation or confusion. That wire is only partly accessible without cutting drywall.</p> <p>Another question that came to mind is:</p> <p><strong>#4 Since those wires are no longer connected, do they still need to remain accessible or can they be buried or covered?</strong></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321290 0 Fred https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/555035 2025-08-08T00:54:51Z 2025-08-08T01:34:29Z

<p>My questions is amp sizing for a subpanel. I am looking to install a subpanel that would be used to connect two identical 2-ton condensing units 230V for two 5-door drinks coolers next to each other in a market. The label for each condensing unit indicates the following:</p> <p>RLA = 15.7,</p> <p>LRA = 68.0,</p> <p>MINIMUM CIRCUIT AMP = 21.0.</p> <p>AMPS.MAX.BRANCH CIRCUIT FUSE = 40.</p> <p>What size double pole breaker (and wire size) do I use for the subpanel? Do I add both max circuit fuse (80A)?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321169 3 Mseniuk https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/552569 2025-08-08T11:11:09Z 2025-08-08T00:53:12Z

<p>Recently, my house lost the neutral connection at the pole connecting the power line to my home. This allowed a 240V surge to go through my house. It burned up every power strip and almost caught my entertainment system on fire. It burned my control board in my furnace, Keurig, and a floor fan. All of which were not in use. Is there any SPD that I can install to protect my panel and everything in it?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321280 -1 Barbara Hrabik https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/554734 2025-08-08T16:59:14Z 2025-08-08T23:29:07Z

<p>I have gray, purple, black and brown wires. In which order do they attach to the switch for my 3-speed ceiling fan?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321260 2 poojnf https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/554290 2025-08-08T22:54:12Z 2025-08-08T21:20:04Z

<p>This is in a ten year old house. The builder put in a black 4” shallow round electrical box to mount the ceiling dome light fixture on in one of the rooms. It is mounted on a joist. I’m trying to replace the light fixture with a ceiling fan.</p> <p>While removing the existing electrical box, in addition to the usual black, white, etc. wires going, up I found that it had a thick black cord attached on the flip side of it (attic side). It is like attached/welded on to the box and I don’t know how to remove the box because of the cord.</p> <p>Does anyone know what this cord could be?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Jp8n5i2C.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Jp8n5i2C.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321252 4 Nate https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/187952 2025-08-08T18:05:05Z 2025-08-08T20:17:41Z

<p>I have a series of eight receptacles in the game room, all showing 109 volts, which is of course low. If anything (a lamp, fan) is plugged into any of them, it won’t work, but also all the other receptacles, up and down stream, will drop to 49 volts.</p> <p>I tripped the breaker and identified all the receptacles in this series. I found the last receptacle which holds just two line wires (aside from ground) and worked upwards to find the first one providing the load for all the others.</p> <p>They all show 109 volts (including the line of the first one). None of the receptacles had any loose wires or showed any sign of damage or overheating. The breaker never tripped, and the test button on the breaker works fine. All the receptacles had been working fine, and this just started last week.</p> <p>What am I missing?</p> <p>How can I know if the problem is in the breaker, or if somewhere in the house there is another receptacle upstream that I can not locate?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321119 3 Keagan https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/551642 2025-08-08T21:02:24Z 2025-08-08T02:52:33Z

<p>I’m adding a subpanel in the (former) garage (attached). There was existing 6g SE H-H-N-G running there from the main panel. After install found one hot was at 111v and the other at 129v. 240v between the 2 which is good. But not the balanced ~120v each.</p> <p>Found the neutral in the main was just free/unconnected in the main but touching the metal box. I am hoping if I connect that correctly in the main panel this issue will be resolved. I will note I have not touched the any of this since buying the house a few years ago.</p> <p>But, the main panel is 100% full with no open neutral places. There is an existing subpanel next to the main. So I think maybe I can move some basic breakers from the main into the subpanel to create room in the main for my 6g neutral.</p> <p>I open the existing subpanel and find the neutral and ground are bonded. So, now another project to sort out.</p> <p>My thought is I can add a ground bar in the existing subpanel and separate the neutrals and grounds. Then move a couple breakers from the main panel to make room. Then connect the 6g neutral that started all this.</p> <p>Note the main is jammed and hard to see what is going on, also a generator transfer is hooked up for a non-existing generator but I don’t see any reason to pull that out.</p> <p>My questions is, is this a good solution? Or is there a better way to address the bonded neutral and ground in the existing subpanel or make space for the 6g neutral in the main panel?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/YF7z9Z3x.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/YF7z9Z3xm.jpg" alt="main panel" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/WiFe9pTw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/WiFe9pTwm.jpg" alt="existing sub panel" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/TGPGfHJj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/TGPGfHJjm.jpg" alt="6g neutral" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321148 1 WeDyno https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/552138 2025-08-08T17:35:15Z 2025-08-08T17:32:36Z

<p>My new detached garage will have a 200 amp panel. I wanted the incoming power to be under ground. This will require boring 160 ft. using 3” conduit. I was told 3” conduit for boring is a non-standard size. My contractor is trying to find a remnant. A minimum order is 5,000ft.</p> <p>I was told the local power company won’t allow two parallel 2” conduits to feed my panel in this application because it’s 3 phase power. What would be the technical reason for not allowing this?</p> <p>I don’t plan to fight the power company, I just want to understand if there is a technical reason for this? All they would say is, that’s what we require.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/221523 0 Yuri Lapitsky https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/133565 2025-08-08T05:22:18Z 2025-08-08T13:41:16Z

<p>I've purchased a Hampton Bay ceiling fan with a lamp and I'm trying to connect it to my house wiring. I can see the following house wires:</p> <ul> <li>2 connected (twisted) white wires</li> <li>one wire of blue'ish color (maybe purple, I'm not good with colors)</li> </ul> <p>What I've tried:</p> <ul> <li>I connected the white fan wire to the white twisted pair of house wires.</li> <li>All the other fan wires were connected to the blue house wire. Result: short circuit and a broken switch.</li> </ul> <p>House wires: <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/pTLhG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/pTLhG.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Fan wires (2 green, blank, white, blue): <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/BQdUK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/BQdUK.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>How should I connect my ceiling fan to the house wires that I have?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321172 0 Bobby Telewiak https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/552668 2025-08-08T14:31:43Z 2025-08-08T03:44:36Z

<p>I have an LED vanity mirror that I wish to install, wiring off of a power source that already supplies a light figure over the old mirror. So, I would be wiring the two items to the original source wire</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321216 3 Mel D https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/553423 2025-08-08T17:51:23Z 2025-08-08T18:03:01Z

<p>I'm trying to replace an Intermatic dial timer bathroom fan switch with an Eaton model with a humidity sensor. The difference between the two is the old one had the connections through holes on the side of the switch and the new one has wires coming out of the back. There seem to be a lot of wires in the electrical box to begin with - three bundles entering at different spots with two or three wires connecting for each of the neutral / load / line, plus three bare copper wires for the ground that are crimped at the end. The box is a standard single light switch size. I managed to squish everything in there, but it's really tight. I had to push the new switch into the wall while I screwed it in. Am I asking for trouble here? Should I pull it all back out and look at getting a bigger box or something?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/oTles8UA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/oTles8UA.jpg" alt="lots of wires in box" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/160726 3 LuckyRabbit https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/98775 2025-08-08T04:03:55Z 2025-08-08T06:06:08Z

<p>I started to remodel one of my rooms and I have had to look into the wiring, now that I'm adding outlets and switches.</p> <p>I checked a wire in a room early on and it was 14/2. That's what I decided to go with for the rest of the wiring. After wiring all the new outlets and routing them to their respective existing outlets, I found that they're all 12/2. Not sure why they're all different. </p> <p>The most unusual issue, the breaker they go to is a 60 amp. Yep, 60. Whole room ties into the furnace.</p> <p>My question is, can I continue to run the 14/2 wiring into the 12/2 existing outlets, all on a 60 amp breaker? More surprises to come with the house. Thanks!</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/201657 -1 cryptic0 https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/70837 2025-08-08T04:23:04Z 2025-08-08T23:41:09Z

<p>I am making an Edison wooden lamp and instead of a toggle on/off switch, I want to be able to dim the lamp. The bulb I am using is rated at 6 Watts. What type of rotary rheostat should I use for the dimming function? It needs to work at 120V.</p> <p>Many rheostats I am seeing are rated for 100W which may not properly dim an LED given their low wattage.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321185 1 fred_dot_u https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/56903 2025-08-08T20:07:24Z 2025-08-08T20:07:24Z

<p>Our garden sheds have become depressed, burying the not-quite-up-to-code connection to the inside light switch and outlet. In the process of raising their spirits, by elevating the structure twenty-four inches / sixty-one centimeters, I'm inclined to create a legitimate extension to the circuits. Both sheds are effectively the same circumstances, although the upstream outlet will have a more appropriate pigtail connection, thanks to YouTube video instruction. I have WAGO™ two conductor devices to use in place of wire nuts, also some wire nuts of what I hope are correct sizes.</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/jtcHJ7LF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/jtcHJ7LF.jpg" alt="ground level conduit" /></a></p> <p>The above image shows the existing conduit, PVC pipe as it exits the earth.</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/BH6Xnk8z.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/BH6Xnk8z.jpg" alt="under shed conduit" /></a></p> <p>This is the manufacturer's installation of the conduit from the outlet and light switch to the underside of the shed floor.</p> <p>There's not much of the EMT extending and no easy way to get more from above.</p> <p>I found this item on the <a href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-Electrical-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Set-Screw-Connector-5-Pack-23210/202077144#overlay" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Home Depot web site</a>:</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/651FRJ7B.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/651FRJ7B.png" alt="conduit nipple with set screw" /></a></p> <p>Image from linked site.</p> <p>It appears that there might be sufficient length to engage the set screw in the above item. The threading and locking nut leads me to believe that I can then attach a waterproof outlet box with a blank cover to that threading, although clearance may be a bit tight.</p> <p>Continuing earthward from the waterproof box, I'd be adding a short length of PVC electrical conduit to a second waterproof box with a blank cover. The distance between the shed and the earth is approximately thirty-one inches / seventy-nine centimeters, but the length of the required piece will be reduced by the heights of the two boxes.</p> <p>According to one <a href="https://www.cantexinc.com/Portals/0/CANTEX-Schedule-40-and-80-Conduit-Sell-Sheet.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">internet resource</a>, the outside diameter of the PVC of 1.32 inches matches the specifications for one inch conduit, which ensures that I'll get the correct diameter fittings for the two boxes.</p> <p>Home Depot (see link above) comes through with ninety-three cent connectors:</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6HKdpckB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6HKdpckB.png" alt="one inch conduit connector" /></a></p> <p>and ninety-six cent (!) locking nuts (x2) which appears to be all the fasteners and connectors I require.</p> <p>With such a long distance between the underside of the shed and the ground below, I suspect that alignment isn't going to be problematic. I had discovered liquid-tight connectors and tubing/pipe for a more flexible approach, but the extra cost of doing so can be avoided, in my opinion.</p> <p>I had approached this project with the concept of pulling new wire from the upstream location, but the cost of the wire and the labor involved caused me to seek out a different method.</p> <p>Only now does it occur to me that I could remove the existing wire from the switch and outlet and extend its length to reach the ground and save the expense of one box and connectors.</p> <p>Without a waterproof box at the very underside of the shed, what parts/methods are required to go from EMT to the waterproof box at ground level? Can this be done with electrical PVC, or should the extension be made with EMT?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321182 0 Wolf https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/552849 2025-08-08T19:31:10Z 2025-08-08T19:31:10Z

<p>How can I install an old chandelier that has 4 white wires. I can’t tell which wire has to be attached to the hot, neutral and ground.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/315479 1 ildar https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/158905 2025-08-08T05:59:33Z 2025-08-08T13:09:20Z

<p>I have a ground wire that I can get around the ground screw on an outlet. This ground wire is going then to next outlets. Is it okay to do this or do I need to cut ground wire and use a pigtail to join the wires and have only one wire attach to the ground screw?<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/LRn9cpud.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/LRn9cpud.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/286526 2 Sandersonerson https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/177298 2025-08-08T21:53:07Z 2025-08-08T10:05:45Z

<p>(Reposted from a guest account I lost access to somehow)</p> <p>I recently moved into a new home built in the 1970's and am looking to upgrade some no-neutral dumb switches to smart switches. After doing some research, I opted to go with Lutron Casetas throughout. For my 3-way set of switches, I've purchased model # P-PKG1WB-WH, which I'm hoping to install as a single pole and eliminate the other switch entirely (replacing it with a wireless, in-wall remote).</p> <p>Complicating things further, there is no ground wiring present in the gang boxes (I have determined the metal boxes themselves are grounded and have purchased grounding screws, so I'm hoping that's the only thing I'll need to install to add ground).</p> <p>Based on what I've seen from a few sources, I think I will just need to connect the line/load from one of the existing switches using a wire nut in order to maintain functionally of the newly installed smart switch. I intend to install a wireless remote to replace the second switch (which came with the Lutron). This <a href="https://imgur.io/a/NnOvgGK" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link has</a> pictures of both gang boxes, one that features a separate switch and the other featuring a non-GFCI outlet (the switch with the single orange is the one I'll be keeping and the outlet has a black and white wire running to it). I'm noticing that the switch in the gang box with the outlet has a continuous wire wrapped around the traveler screw with the wire being stripped in the middle (at the connection to the switch) rather than the end.</p> <p>I've replaced switches before, but this particular setup has me struggling a bit.</p> <p>Any help/advice that could be provided would be amazing! For clarity, the area I'm struggling the most with is how to handle the actual replacement. Which box I should put the new switch into and how to properly cap everything when I'm done (considering the wraparound nature of the black traveler in one of the boxes). Edit: I neglected to mention that there is no neutral wiring present in the one of the gang boxes. I'm not sure if this is obvious information (or even necessary to consider when for the wiring of a standard 3-way) but wanted to mention it in case it was important info.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/181852 0 Illidanek https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/110849 2025-08-08T11:21:08Z 2025-08-08T22:45:11Z

<p>I have bought a new motion sensor for my corridor LEDs. The lights turn on fine with it, however, when the sensor is set to OFF, the lights blink indefinitely (a few times per second) and never actually turn off.</p> <p>It turns out the sensor has a <em>minimum</em> watt requirement of 40W, and I'm quite certain the LEDs use less than that, so could that be the cause of the issue?</p> <p>If so, how can I easily raise the wattage of the circuit?</p> <p>And if that's not it, then what could be causing this?</p> <p>Thanks in advance!</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321088 0 James L. https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/82291 2025-08-08T02:49:14Z 2025-08-08T21:30:30Z

<p>I have a GE panel, model CR-306156 and the latch fell off. Can anyone help me find the replacement model?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/z1yO10a5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/z1yO10a5.jpg" alt="latch" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/EAoK5oZP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/EAoK5oZP.jpg" alt="panel" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321147 0 Kat https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/141510 2025-08-08T17:12:39Z 2025-08-08T17:12:39Z

<p>TL;DR: I have an older ceiling fan I want to replace. Works fine, but I want a very low profile fan and light as I have 8' ceilings. I want to ensure I have remedied any electrical issues that may exist, when I replace the fan.</p> <p>FWIW, I am just a homeowner with novice electrical understanding, my experience is limited to replacing like-with-like in my home. I have deviated from that a bit only with the very excellent help of this community who have helped me be safe when learning how to do something out of my comfort zone.</p> <p>Can you help me again, to diagnose/remedy any issue I might have when I replace this fan? Because the LED bulbs in this fan glow indefinitely under one scenario.</p> <p>To explain: The fan has a simple toggle on/off switch in the wall. When the wall toggle switch is OFF, the pull chain for the fan light is ON, and the pull chain for the fan blades is OFF, the LED bulbs glow forever.</p> <p>If I pull the fan blade chain to any ON position or if I pull the fan light chain to OFF, no glow.</p> <p>The previous owners put the same model fan in two other rooms, I have tested the same LED bulbs in those, no glow.</p> <p>I have read the numerous questions about glowing LEDs and understand the issue can stem from the LEDs themselves (but I think not the case here), a short in the fixture, leaking current in the switch area or at the fixture, etc.</p> <p>Before I install a new fan, I want to ensure I have done due diligence and found/fixed any issue necessary. Is it possible for me to confirm the issue is a short in the old fan and I'm good? Is it possible for me to diagnose a leaking current at the switch or at the fixture, and how would I remedy? Or should I not DIY this and call an electrician, to ensure all is done correctly...</p> <p>Thank you for your help.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321145 0 Armand https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/127873 2025-08-08T16:26:52Z 2025-08-08T17:01:48Z

<p>I’m using some bare armored ground wire (AC) and bare copper wire inside flexible metallic conduit (FMC) for grounding system conductors.</p> <p>I like the durable built-in anti short abrasion protection of screw-in FMC/AC/MC connectors like the example below, but am a bit concerned about the long-term durability of the armor’s attachment to the connector.</p> <p>Is it OK to add a non-listed securing clamp to the already NEC compliant screw-in connector/armor junction? I’m envisioning a galvanized hose clamp around the armor end to make sure it doesn’t budge from the screw-in neck.</p> <p>Calif., USA NEC code (Conductors are bonded to metal junction boxes along the way given the ferrous conduit)</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3KVWtNSl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3KVWtNSl.jpg" alt="sample FMC/AC/MC screw-in connector" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321144 0 Gary https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/552076 2025-08-08T16:07:49Z 2025-08-08T16:20:38Z

<p>My sisters old ITE EQ Load Center is scaring me to death! She wanted to add a generator interlock in case of power outage and saw her load center...wow! I heard you can refurbish it, but I can't find much info on how without part numbers, etc. Eaten? Siemens? Or does it just need to be replaced? I'm afraid for her as the breakers control some really random parts of the house. One part of a room connected to only half of another room...and it goes on. I have attached pics. Please...any help would be greatly appreciated.</p> <p>P.S. My sisters Ex husband did this mayhem!!</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/65WefKTB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/65WefKTB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6HIHdbAB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6HIHdbAB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3KVyosBl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3KVyosBl.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/YFkTOGhx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/YFkTOGhx.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/E4AcMDPZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/E4AcMDPZ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/293661 0 ISOAnswers https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/135740 2025-08-08T02:05:12Z 2025-08-08T13:55:14Z

<p>I purchased around a dozen A19 Wiz brand smart lights a few months ago for use in a few ceiling fixtures. Now, the lights have started to fail in rapid succession, across three different fixtures on different circuits. So many have failed (about 10 now), that I'm concerned I have some electrical problem causing them to short out. The manifestation of the failure is that they start to strobe on and off at irregular intervals instead of holding a constant color. Not only the original lights have failed, but at least one of the replacement lights Wiz sent, with a slightly different product number.</p> <p>I have tested the voltage on switches for two of the fixtures, as well as a socket for a bulb, and the voltage seems to be as expected - 121.7 volts.</p> <p>But given the large number of failures, what are some other issues I might have that could be causing these failures (beyond the bulbs just being crap)? And how could I test for these other issues?</p> <p>Thanks for your suggestions!</p> <p>--- EDIT ---</p> <p>For reference, here are pictures on two of the fixtures with malfunctioning bulbs. (Some of the bulbs currently installed are still functional in the picture.)</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/2Du6Q.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/2Du6Q.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/L1xCM.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/L1xCM.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

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