most recent 30 from diy.stackexchange.com 2025-08-07T02:00:09Z https://diy.stackexchange.com/feeds/tag?tagnames=electrical-panel https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/rdf https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321301 0 gatorback https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/56573 2025-08-07T14:40:52Z 2025-08-07T20:39:46Z

<p>As I understand it, Challenger electrical boxes from the 1990s are branded as unsafe and will not be insurable. Specifically, they do not trip when they should trip.</p> <p>Given that they do not trip properly, does replacing the <a href="https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/91429/replacing-a-challenger-breaker-with-an-after-market-breaker/141440#141440">circuit breaker modules</a> remedy or am I missing something?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/yvo4Lx0w.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/yvo4Lx0w.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/iVXbk4Tj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/iVXbk4Tj.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/xVJjhbYi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/xVJjhbYi.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/bZRRZspU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/bZRRZspU.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/80154 2 S Marks https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/46715 2025-08-07T19:50:58Z 2025-08-07T20:29:32Z

<p>I have read the original posts here, but just want to make sure I am correct. Just bought a new dryer (been using mother nature for the past year)</p> <p>I have 50 amp (double pole) breakers in my service panel, labeled "<em>Range Basement</em>" (must have been a range in the basement at one point). It feeds roughly 25 feet of 6/3 wire, at the end is a 50 AMP 3 prong (all diagonal) range outlet. </p> <p>I should probably change the breakers to 30 AMP (in case something goes wrong with the new drier), but here is where I am still a little confused. Do I replace (if I keep the 50 AMP breakers) the outlet with a new 50 AMP, or can I just go down and buy a new 50 AMP range power cord for the drier?</p> <p>Its obvious that the dryer will never pull enough amps to trip the 50 AMP beakers, and there will never be a Range in my basement again.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/174850 0 Wyatt https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/107269 2025-08-07T16:00:34Z 2025-08-07T14:51:03Z

<p>I have a challenger panel with a burned bus and bad breakers. I'm looking to replace them. I called my local shops and they said they don't carry this anymore. Is there a replacement option without going to remove the entire box? I am mainly looking to replace the interior components Bus and breakers. I don't mind other brands as long as they fit. The panel is 100 amp and I have attached images of the label and the bus.</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/mPRQT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/mPRQT.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/9Fym2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/9Fym2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/zVEl3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zVEl3.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321169 3 Mseniuk https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/552569 2025-08-07T11:11:09Z 2025-08-07T00:53:12Z

<p>Recently, my house lost the neutral connection at the pole connecting the power line to my home. This allowed a 240V surge to go through my house. It burned up every power strip and almost caught my entertainment system on fire. It burned my control board in my furnace, Keurig, and a floor fan. All of which were not in use. Is there any SPD that I can install to protect my panel and everything in it?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/160726 3 LuckyRabbit https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/98775 2025-08-07T04:03:55Z 2025-08-07T06:06:08Z

<p>I started to remodel one of my rooms and I have had to look into the wiring, now that I'm adding outlets and switches.</p> <p>I checked a wire in a room early on and it was 14/2. That's what I decided to go with for the rest of the wiring. After wiring all the new outlets and routing them to their respective existing outlets, I found that they're all 12/2. Not sure why they're all different. </p> <p>The most unusual issue, the breaker they go to is a 60 amp. Yep, 60. Whole room ties into the furnace.</p> <p>My question is, can I continue to run the 14/2 wiring into the 12/2 existing outlets, all on a 60 amp breaker? More surprises to come with the house. Thanks!</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321088 0 James L. https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/82291 2025-08-07T02:49:14Z 2025-08-07T21:30:30Z

<p>I have a GE panel, model CR-306156 and the latch fell off. Can anyone help me find the replacement model?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/z1yO10a5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/z1yO10a5.jpg" alt="latch" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/EAoK5oZP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/EAoK5oZP.jpg" alt="panel" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321144 0 Gary https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/552076 2025-08-07T16:07:49Z 2025-08-07T16:20:38Z

<p>My sisters old ITE EQ Load Center is scaring me to death! She wanted to add a generator interlock in case of power outage and saw her load center...wow! I heard you can refurbish it, but I can't find much info on how without part numbers, etc. Eaten? Siemens? Or does it just need to be replaced? I'm afraid for her as the breakers control some really random parts of the house. One part of a room connected to only half of another room...and it goes on. I have attached pics. Please...any help would be greatly appreciated.</p> <p>P.S. My sisters Ex husband did this mayhem!!</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/65WefKTB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/65WefKTB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6HIHdbAB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6HIHdbAB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3KVyosBl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3KVyosBl.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/YFkTOGhx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/YFkTOGhx.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/E4AcMDPZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/E4AcMDPZ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/218202 1 Jtcardsfan https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/131250 2025-08-07T18:20:37Z 2025-08-07T08:21:55Z

<p>So, I had a friend wire my basement for me because even though I had a basic understanding of it, I wasn't 100% comfortable with doing it alone (he's been working construction for several years now). I noticed he wired a string of 8 outlets and then two can lights in the bar. He used 12 gauge wire for all the outlets but 14 gauge for the lights. All this is running on a 20 amp breaker. From what I've read, this is technically not code, but I'm not too concerned with that. I just want to know if it's safe. I also wanted to add an outlet to the circuit for under the bar for a mini fridge, so I'm thinking I need the 20 amp breaker for that reason, otherwise I'd just switch it to a 15 amp breaker. Any thoughts?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320325 0 Renee https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/531158 2025-08-07T20:43:15Z 2025-08-07T19:05:34Z

<p>I have an old Frigidaire PLEF398CCD glass top with an infinite switch that seams to be bad. The dual burner stays on high even when off. The display says HE showing it is hot when it is off, but the burner remains on high. Can I remove the switch, tape off the wires and use the stove and remaining burners safely? It will take a while for the switch to arrive and I have kids to cook for.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/321003 11 T Mographer1017 G https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/487679 2025-08-07T22:47:29Z 2025-08-07T16:18:07Z

<p>As far as the info I can find, the ground and neutral should not be bonded in the subpanel unless they are bonded in the main panel. Which they are not, correct?</p> <p>So is My electrician wrong to be telling me that it is ok for them to be bonded in the subpanel simply because there is no ground bar in this subpanel? It has to be purchased and installed seperately.</p> <p>Thank you for your advice!</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/tCz3ZdPy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/tCz3ZdPy.jpg" alt="Main Panel" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/0aUJbnCY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/0aUJbnCY.jpg" alt="Sub Panel" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/tCvVaYWy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/tCvVaYWy.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/282827 0 RRC214 https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/174530 2025-08-07T23:35:46Z 2025-08-07T00:12:44Z

<p>Installed a Pro/Tran 2 6 circuit transfer switch. The switch works fine on &quot;Line&quot;. However, the circuits on A, C, and E do not work on &quot;GEN&quot;. The circuits on B, C, and F work on both Line and Gen. Does anyone have any ideas of why the circuits on A, C, and E do not work when transfer switch is in the generator mode? The model number on the transfer switch is A306. The generator is an ECOFlow 3600wh solar generator. It is connected to the transfer switch by a 30 amp line.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320820 0 Michael Stum https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/60665 2025-08-07T19:34:22Z 2025-08-07T20:37:48Z

<p>I'm looking at having a new circuit run in the future. This will be for regular 15A receptacles, but if I'm making the mess of cutting drywall etc. anyway, I'm wondering: Any reason not to always run 12 Gauge wire on a 20A breaker* even if it's overkill for the expected load?</p> <p>The obvious reason is price (casual look at Home Depot shows 12/2 being ~40% more expensive than 14/2), and I think that 12/2 is a bit more annoying to pull through.</p> <p>But apart from that, is there a technical reason not to do so? My load calculation should be unaffected by the breaker capacity and based on what I plug into it (though of course, with the knowledge of the extra headroom, it's tempting to plug in more stuff than originally planned)</p> <p>If it matters, this is in Washington State in the USA.</p> <p>* I'm assuming a 20A breaker because I think that putting 12 AWG into a 15A breaker is bad manners and confusing.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/284272 1 Jon1440 https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/175546 2025-08-07T12:14:15Z 2025-08-07T20:33:07Z

<p>I have a 200amp main panel and a 200amp subpanel, a foot apart in my house. Concern I have is from the main panel a 100amp breaker feeds the 200amp sub panel. Is this correct?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320624 1 Moshe Katz https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/6820 2025-08-07T01:39:40Z 2025-08-07T02:15:10Z

<p>My house has a split-bus panel from 1979 (Square D box model QOB 30X200-3; interior model QON 26-614HA), providing 200 amp service. The panel is completely full.</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/2i3NdKM6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/2i3NdKM6.jpg" alt="door label" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/wjDlDMXY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/wjDlDMXY.jpg" alt="interior label" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/cC0PW8gY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/cC0PW8gY.jpg" alt="full panel" /></a></p> <p>I want to install a separate main panel outside (actually an <a href="https://mall.industry.siemens.com/mall/en/us/Catalog/Product/?mlfb=US2%3AMC0816B1200RTH" rel="nofollow noreferrer">8-space meter-main box</a>), to add a surge protector and prepare for future solar installation.</p> <p>That means this panel needs to become a subpanel. My plan is to replace the current 3-conductor SEU cable from the meter with a new 4-conductor SER cable from the feed-thru terminals of the meter-main panel.</p> <p><strong>New panel door label:</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/LhJiEBdr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/LhJiEBdr.jpg" alt="new panel door label" /></a></p> <p>Looking at the neutral/ground bars, I see that they are already all separated (except one neutral that can be easily moved). But there are three other issues:</p> <ol> <li>The neutral from the SEU cable looks like it can only connect to the lower part of the bar (i.e. the part where all the grounds are).</li> <li>The subpanel neutral and ground look like they can only connect to the upper part of the bar. (The lug on the lower bar where the ground wire is connected looks too small for the wire from the subpanel, so I can't switch them.)</li> <li>There does not appear to be a way to unbond the two bars from each other.</li> </ol> <p>(Note: there does not appear to be any bonding between the neutral/ground bars and the enclosure.)</p> <p><strong>Close-up of neutral/ground bars</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/A2nrrj18.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/A2nrrj18.jpg" alt="close-up of neutral/ground bars" /></a></p> <p>(I know that the correct long-term answer is to replace this panel with a modern one, but I would like to do that as a separate project. As I think other questions on this site have noted, a full replacement requires much more permitting hassle than effectively a &quot;like for like&quot; replacement of what will now be just a subpanel.)</p> <p>Is it possible to retrofit this panel with a separate ground bar? Alternatively, is there a 2017 NEC-compliant way to argue that the existing install is grandfathered-in until I have time to replace the panel?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320626 1 Kurt Granroth https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/15236 2025-08-07T02:22:14Z 2025-08-07T02:22:14Z

<p><strong>Abstract</strong></p> <p>My existing 200A main service panel severely limits the maximum size of any PV solar array array, since the NEC 705.12(D) &quot;120% rule&quot; restricts me to a 40A breaker to the inverter, thus effectively capping my array to under 8kW. Could I increase that limit to 20kW (or more!) by splitting my existing service panel into two separate 200A sub-panels with de-rated 100A panel breakers and splitting the existing circuits between them?</p> <p><strong>The Current Status</strong></p> <p>I have an old 200A meter-integrated service panel that (among many other problems), cannot accept the power from a 20kW PV array since that would require potentially a 125A breaker and the &quot;120% rule&quot; is saying 200A Panel Breaker + 125A Solar Breaker = 325A Combined &gt; 240A 120% Limit.</p> <p>The typical way this is handled by local pros is to upgrade the panel to 400A and the two 200A panels that result of that would give me nigh-infinite amount of PV capability. For long and convoluted reasons, this is not a fiscally feasible path for me (in short: my panel has &quot;grandfathered&quot; exceptions that would be egregiously expensive to implement when they go away during an upgrade). That leaves me with the only real option of keeping my existing 200A panel and somehow making that work for me!</p> <p><strong>The Ad-Hoc Solution</strong></p> <p>My primary issue with using the existing service panel is that the panel breaker is the same rating as the panel's bus bar -- both 200A. So what if I:</p> <ul> <li>Bought two new 200A main-lug sub panels</li> <li>Bought two 100A 240V circuit breakers that work with my existing service panel</li> <li>Removed all of my existing circuits from the current panel and redistribute them to the two new sub-panels</li> <li>Install the two 100A breakers as the only breakers in the original service panel</li> <li>Wire up the two new sub panels to the new breakers</li> </ul> <p>This would give me two 200A panels that are each de-rated to 100A. The 120% rule still says that I can get a maximum of 240A of combined input (since the bus bars are still 200A) and so now I have 240A Combined - 100A Panel Breaker = 140A Solar Breaker! That would trivially give me my 20kW array. And since I have two panels like this, I might be able to max out at 200A of solar capability (a 40kW array?) by splitting the array between the two panels.</p> <p>In any case, it seems like this solution would not reduce my total capacity that I currently enjoy while allowing me to use any size of solar array I would like and doing so without swapping out my existing (grandfathered) service panel. Oh, and be a full order of magnitude less expensive than the 400A upgrade solution.</p> <p><strong>Feasibility?</strong></p> <p>How feasible is this plan? I need it to be NEC compliant but also practically workable. Is it both?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320466 1 Bill https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/535291 2025-08-07T21:13:50Z 2025-08-07T02:59:25Z

<p>I have a 200amp GE THQP breaker panel that has the cruciform bar connectors that prevent the use of a THQL breakers.</p> <p>I would like to run a 100amp circuit to a subpanel. However, my research has told me that GE never produced 100amp breakers in the THQP format.</p> <p>Is there any way to run a 100amp circuit to a subpanel? If not, are there any good options for a 100amp subpanel besides replacing the entire panel?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320458 1 Steven T https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/535185 2025-08-07T19:12:48Z 2025-08-07T00:12:32Z

<p>Can I turn off my 200Amp main breaker and turn off every breaker in the panel and backfeed the panel using my 240v 10/3 air conditioner wiring using a natural gas generator?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320406 1 Drew https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/28677 2025-08-07T20:56:13Z 2025-08-07T20:56:13Z

<p>My main panel has all spaces full, so there is a lot of wire already in the box. I've got an Emporia Vue monitor installed as well, so with all those clamps the cover for the panel <em>barely</em> fits on, and bulges out. The Vue itself is in a separate box already, connected to the main via EMT, since it wouldn't fit.</p> <p>I'm thinking about putting a new metal enclosure near the panel, where the Vue and all of the clamps can live. And then adding pigtails to the circuits I want to monitor, where the pigtail would run into the new box, through the current clamp, and back to the main panel into the breaker.</p> <p>All of the wiring would be in EMT conduit and the new box would be rated for electrical use.</p> <p>Would it be allowed to pigtail only the hot wire on each circuit, since that's what I need to clamp (240v would get both pigtailed). So the wire would come from the house, then ground and neutral would go to the bars in the panel, and the hot would go to the pigtail into the clamp enclosure and then back to the breaker in the panel.</p> <p>Any horrible drawbacks I'm not thinking of by going this route? Obviously it's more wire and not super neat, but the amount of stuff packed into my main panel now definitely isn't neat either.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320373 0 Ivan Taylor https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/532677 2025-08-07T18:12:46Z 2025-08-07T18:12:46Z

<p>So I bought a camper to put on my property and I'm wonder how to go about getting power to it. I found a RV plug box with a 30 amp breaker in it and was wondering what size wire ill need to run to get a good flow at 300+ft. Do I have to go with #6 copper or #2 aluminum or can I go with thinner wire?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320201 3 B. White https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/497317 2025-08-07T01:38:17Z 2025-08-07T20:36:18Z

<p>I want to install a 240V electric water heater, and my main panel is nearly maxed out. It is a Square D QO panel (I believe it's considered a 12-slot 20 circuit panel), and the only available slots now are as shown here:</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/CUb52wKr.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/CUb52wKr.png" alt="breaker panel tabular layout" /></a></p> <p>So, slot 9 has a 15A tandem breaker, of which one half is currently unused. Slot 11 is empty. I propose to replace the tandem in slot 9 with a 15-30A tandem, and install another 15-30A tandem in slot 11. One wire from the water heater would attach to the 30A breaker in slot 9, and the other would attach to the 30A breaker in slot 11. I believe this would give me the 240V I need, but there would be no common trip. Would this arrangement meet code?</p> <p>I have seen 15-30A tandem breakers on the Schneider Electric website, so in theory they exist.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/89332 6 Jrowe https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/53107 2025-08-07T13:23:50Z 2025-08-07T00:33:14Z

<p>I am wiring a house that I built, and code says I need an AFCI for the bedroom circuit. </p> <p>The panel that I will be installing this AFCI breaker in is a subpanel, so my ground/neutrals are on 2 separate buses on opposite sides of the breaker panel. </p> <p>Can I tie the AFCI white pigtail wire in to the ground bus, or does it need to go over the neutral bus? The reason I'm asking, is because the wire is kind of short. To run across to the neutral bus, I would have to splice an extension to the the AFCI white pigtail wire, and run the extension over to the neutral bus. How do you guys work with a situation like this? </p> <p>I have all my 120v breakers on the left side (where the ground bus is), and my 240v breakers on the right side near where the neutral bus is. </p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/148179 13 Edward https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/91792 2025-08-07T02:18:53Z 2025-08-07T23:43:58Z

<p>Just bought a condo and one of the breakers in it has this metal thingy on it. What is it? What is it for? <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/nEmtG.jpg" alt="enter image description here"> <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/CAJ3k.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/320073 3 Justin https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/152255 2025-08-07T14:16:35Z 2025-08-07T23:30:33Z

<p>Previous owner made extensive use of a welder on a 50A circuit with a breaker that didn’t properly fit the panel. Several breaker tabs show signs of scorching/arcing. Can this be repaired? Or should the panel be replaced?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/iVbmhDj8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/iVbmhDj8.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/4iRauILj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/4iRauILj.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/pBy2M8Gf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/pBy2M8Gf.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/fznjvWh6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/fznjvWh6.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Eg2YsWZP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Eg2YsWZP.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/319991 0 DnA https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/522095 2025-08-07T15:53:07Z 2025-08-07T17:35:04Z

<p>Could someone Please help I had a 30amp receptacle installed when I paid and was expecting 50amps he came back and said I only have 100amp service and cant do 50amps because there wasn't room however i have 2 free receptacles that at one point one was connected to a stove/oven and the other a dryer and both are gas now freeing uo those receptacles, so am wrong to think that he isnt correct telling me that i can't safely run a 50amp receptacle to charge at, atleast 40kWh?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/319740 2 techGuy https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/514712 2025-08-07T06:24:44Z 2025-08-07T02:17:26Z

<p>I need to upgrade my old main electrical panel from 100 to 200amps. I contacted the utility company and they told me that my electric meter is good for up to 150 and my service lines are good for up to 200amps. they said I need to install all in one entrance service panel CSED which include the meter and the panel in one.</p> <p>Since my old electrical panel is installed inside the wires enter from the top knockouts of the old interior panel and when Installing the CSED panel the wires will be too short because the manufacture knockouts located at the bottom of most of the panels I found. Is it possible to do knockout at the top wall of the panel for wires entrance so I do not need to wire nut all of them and keep the installation clean and stay up to code?</p> <p>The CSED panel will be on surface because my conduit is underground and attached to the exterior wall, not semi-flush, not flush. The CSEDs panels I found are below. I marked green circle for where to do a knockout if possible.</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/BHerqPoz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/BHerqPoz.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/oMewOOA4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/oMewOOA4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ZzfHEImS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ZzfHEImS.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/319885 0 Misty https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/518874 2025-08-07T19:32:35Z 2025-08-07T02:15:29Z

<p>Need replacement breakers. The panel calls for TQLD but they are no longer available. What new breaker will fit?</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/319902 -1 BennieF https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/519334 2025-08-07T12:09:35Z 2025-08-07T13:00:22Z

<p>I am in the planning phase of building a 480 sq ft tiny house with all of the normal size house appliances and a 10k mini split unit. What wiring and breaker box parts/pieces will I need? I’m trying to build my list so I can budget. Thank you.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/319864 4 Joseph https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/518180 2025-08-07T22:22:13Z 2025-08-07T22:49:34Z

<p>Can I replace a double 15 Amp breaker switch with a double 20 Amp breaker? I have 2 window unit air conditioners. They’re tripping the breaker during the heat of summer.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/319772 0 Stephen Dalton https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/515670 2025-08-07T14:13:35Z 2025-08-07T14:13:35Z

<p>I have a leak which I believe is caused by a blocked drain in my Samsung fridge freezer model RSH7UNSW. I have removed the screws from the back panel but it does not want to move. There are no obvious clips. Any advice welcome.</p>

https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/319665 -1 MiniMe https://diy.stackexchange.com/users/19581 2025-08-07T00:44:45Z 2025-08-07T13:39:20Z

<p>I am installing a smart toilet that will consume ~1000w. The bathroom already shares a circuit with the kitchen so every time the dryer and the microwave or the convection oven are running at the same time that breaker is triggered.</p> <p>I would need to run at least one cable (add one circuit) for this but I am sure I will need more in other areas and my plan is to run them through the attic and drop in the room where I want them.</p> <p>The electrical pannel is almost maxed out (I have like 5 slots available) and lots of the existing wires are going up in the basement ceiling and maybe through the main floor wall up<br /> I do not want to risk to try to drill one or two more holes in the framing at the top of the electrical panel and to go up to the attic through the main floor wall</p> <p>What I would like would be to drill a larger hole through the basement wall (above the ground if I can) and then from there to run a larger pipe (conduit) that could accommodate multiple circuits as needed. From there I should try to enter the attic via the soffit.</p> <p>How is this done ? What does the code say in this respect ?</p> <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6WfhgRBM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6WfhgRBM.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

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